After a few excursions on foot from Lake Nyabikere, one of which Ben and I headed to the entrance of Kibale forest with new found Slovenian friends, we headed in earnest to Uganda's Kibale National Park. The park is nestled in mature forest area at an altitude of 1200 meters with a surrounding agricultural matrix of tea, bananas and rolling hills found in this crater lake region of the south. Kibale National Park is a bit of a primatologist's mecca, boasting the claim at having the highest primate densities in the world, including nocturnal, the rare and the hauntingly-human-like chimpanzees. Some of the primate species found in this national park include: the Olive Baboon, Red Colobus Monkey, Angolan colobus, Black and white colobus, red-tailed monkeys, Bush babies, Galagoes and of course the only Great Ape in the Park, the Chimpanzee. According to the last and very recent survey of the park area, the protected area claims to have nearly 1400 of these magnificent creatures and 5 groups habituated to human contact. The park also has the largest concentration of forest elephants in Uganda- although these creatures are avoided due to their aggressive nature. Walking down the roads had proven to be a fruitful (and cheap) way to view wildlife. Walking 
south from Lake Nyabikere we had seen numerous bird species, a young Forest Cobra, a beautiful array of butterflies and witnessed (mostly heard) a very nervous group of Red-tailed monkeys crossing the road, via arboreal-acrobatic leaps, to avoid the hoots and warning calls of a rather large group of chimpanzees. There really was something for these nimble monkeys to be nervous about: chimpanzees are known to hunt and eat monkeys. It was an amazing thing to witness, the monkeys leaping 12-15 feet across the dirt road we were standing on to the tones of 
chimpanzees under the forest floor. We never caught a glimpse of the apes, just the effect of their antics on the much smaller red-tails and those all-familiar hoots of our closest primate kin. We also saw tracks indicating a road crossing, the divergent toes of the chimpanzees caked in the clay-mud and heard their voices. Would we be lucky enough to observe these apes in the wild? Would they elude us like they had been eluding other visitors recently? I was very tentative and nervous about our chances. Ben kept asking, "Excited for tomorrow? Ready to see chimpanzees in their natural 
habitat?" I was nervous. This is not a zoo and the natural conditions in the dense forest combined with the movements of the chimps can lead to disappointment. Recently,the park guards told us the day we arrived, the chimps have been elusive, sparsely placed and traveling in very small sub-groups due to late season rains and subsequent late fruiting of the fig trees that the chimpanzees commonly visit for feeding, grooming, socialization, mating, playing and just plan hanging out with the family. We were lucky, the guards said, just last week these trees took to late ripening and the chimps were once again feeding.
south from Lake Nyabikere we had seen numerous bird species, a young Forest Cobra, a beautiful array of butterflies and witnessed (mostly heard) a very nervous group of Red-tailed monkeys crossing the road, via arboreal-acrobatic leaps, to avoid the hoots and warning calls of a rather large group of chimpanzees. There really was something for these nimble monkeys to be nervous about: chimpanzees are known to hunt and eat monkeys. It was an amazing thing to witness, the monkeys leaping 12-15 feet across the dirt road we were standing on to the tones of 
chimpanzees under the forest floor. We never caught a glimpse of the apes, just the effect of their antics on the much smaller red-tails and those all-familiar hoots of our closest primate kin. We also saw tracks indicating a road crossing, the divergent toes of the chimpanzees caked in the clay-mud and heard their voices. Would we be lucky enough to observe these apes in the wild? Would they elude us like they had been eluding other visitors recently? I was very tentative and nervous about our chances. Ben kept asking, "Excited for tomorrow? Ready to see chimpanzees in their natural 
habitat?" I was nervous. This is not a zoo and the natural conditions in the dense forest combined with the movements of the chimps can lead to disappointment. Recently,the park guards told us the day we arrived, the chimps have been elusive, sparsely placed and traveling in very small sub-groups due to late season rains and subsequent late fruiting of the fig trees that the chimpanzees commonly visit for feeding, grooming, socialization, mating, playing and just plan hanging out with the family. We were lucky, the guards said, just last week these trees took to late ripening and the chimps were once again feeding.
We pitched our tent in the park's campsite and quickly took note that while visitors flock to see the large charismatic animals of the parks, the monkeys and chimps at which we view through curious antics of familiar kinship, it is the much smaller inhabitants of the forest that probably rule the forest. I am talking of the supreme architects, extremely social, exceptionally strong in both numbers and physical design - the omnipresent ANTS. They were amazing, I had a strong respect for the our first day as a large, I mean LARGE and in charge, procession cut through the road in droves, with all the supreme organization that only the ants can muster. Not a single individual out of line, the soldiers, the workers- all followed their unified goal and not one questioned their place in the moving mass. As I took photographs I became aware that the commonly called "soldier ants," with massive mandibles, somehow where aware of my presents and began to break rank moving in my direction. They were phenomenal, I thought in admiration, of these supremely adapted creatures. My admiration faltered quickly as Ben and I fought for the next two days to keep them out of our tent and from under our clothes. This was 
not an easy task and as whimsically tried to pick one off my trousers it bit my finger, drawing blood, and sent me swearing across the grass. They are persistent, even as I removed the body from the head the mandibles held on. In short, no more than twice where Ben and I sent in frenzy, slapping our pants away from these creatures. With the warfare on, we abandoned one of the entrances to our tent, doused the outside and inside with insect repellent (resorting to chemical warfare), crossed our fingers and were pleasantly relieved when the newly arrived (and rather upscale) Dutch campers began the loud-stomping and assumed swearing, in foreign tones, several hours later. Between ants and men: humans find it hard to win the battle let alone the war. Our chimp-trekking rendezvous arrived, much anticipated, and we followed our park guide and a 
family of four into the forest. This was by no means a rough hike in the woods, the paths were well worn, occasional trees labeled with English common and scientific names and our guard had a radio by which he kept in contact with base and other trekkers. The forest appeared to be rather mature, undergrowth subdued by a long closed canopies, with large trees with a bit of girth. They also had an unknown fungal infection spreading among many of the larger trees. The guard told our group of the policy of non-interference with such natural orders and yet they are a bit concerned and are now keeping track of the infection rates and spatial movements. While we didn't see any forest elephants, we certainly found enough our their rather large scat and our guard told us that if we see the elephants under no circumstances our we to move towards them or even linger to view, standard protocol: get the as far away as fast as you can and if you can keep up with the guard... all the better.
family of four into the forest. This was by no means a rough hike in the woods, the paths were well worn, occasional trees labeled with English common and scientific names and our guard had a radio by which he kept in contact with base and other trekkers. The forest appeared to be rather mature, undergrowth subdued by a long closed canopies, with large trees with a bit of girth. They also had an unknown fungal infection spreading among many of the larger trees. The guard told our group of the policy of non-interference with such natural orders and yet they are a bit concerned and are now keeping track of the infection rates and spatial movements. While we didn't see any forest elephants, we certainly found enough our their rather large scat and our guard told us that if we see the elephants under no circumstances our we to move towards them or even linger to view, standard protocol: get the as far away as fast as you can and if you can keep up with the guard... all the better. Walking, walking, walking... and the forest is much quieter than the day that we were on the road listening to the hoots and alarm calls of the chimps and red tailed monkeys. Our group came across a troop of olive baboons. This is a primate species that we had seen several times, second only to the vervet monkeys which are even found in urban centers, and yet the seemed a
bit more magnificent and noble in the forest. Several times we had seen them in Kenya, once digging through a rubbish-cage (obviously not working) in Masai Mara Reserve, they were always in the arid shrub lands. Here in Kibale they looked massive compared to those dwelling in the open savanna and we also noticed they looked demographically like a much more stable group, with more adults and less subadults than some of the ones in the savanna. The male was huge (or maybe felt so much larger in the absence of the a protective safari vehicle). We heard, smelled and saw the cautious Black & white colobus monkeys high above in the canopy. I say smelled because being possessing a ruminant stomach and subsisting on almost a completely leafy diet...they have a bit of a fermenting methane smell. I would call them cautious because they are certainly not habituated to humans and for good reason, the former King of the Toro people of Uganda often requested numerous tribal dancers to perform wearing the skins of this long haired monkey (with black and white hair...obviously). Where were the chimps? And then through the undergrowth, a large swarthy creature moved cautiously away from the bipedal encroachers. Then another dark figure, with the accompanied low grunts moved away. It was two males, patrols, our guide informed us. We followed. Our guide immediately set foot to a large fig tree nearby and within the lofty branches were a large group of chimpanzees: males, females, juveniles and infants all enjoying the late ripening of the fig fruit in their forest home.
bit more magnificent and noble in the forest. Several times we had seen them in Kenya, once digging through a rubbish-cage (obviously not working) in Masai Mara Reserve, they were always in the arid shrub lands. Here in Kibale they looked massive compared to those dwelling in the open savanna and we also noticed they looked demographically like a much more stable group, with more adults and less subadults than some of the ones in the savanna. The male was huge (or maybe felt so much larger in the absence of the a protective safari vehicle). We heard, smelled and saw the cautious Black & white colobus monkeys high above in the canopy. I say smelled because being possessing a ruminant stomach and subsisting on almost a completely leafy diet...they have a bit of a fermenting methane smell. I would call them cautious because they are certainly not habituated to humans and for good reason, the former King of the Toro people of Uganda often requested numerous tribal dancers to perform wearing the skins of this long haired monkey (with black and white hair...obviously). Where were the chimps? And then through the undergrowth, a large swarthy creature moved cautiously away from the bipedal encroachers. Then another dark figure, with the accompanied low grunts moved away. It was two males, patrols, our guide informed us. We followed. Our guide immediately set foot to a large fig tree nearby and within the lofty branches were a large group of chimpanzees: males, females, juveniles and infants all enjoying the late ripening of the fig fruit in their forest home.Fortuitously this was the largest habituated group in Kibale National Park. We watched as many 
of the individuals, easily 30-40 feet high in this massive tree, stuffed their mouths to comically full proportions with the sweet fruit, laboring to chew and then spitting out the seeds and core. I could have watched forever. A female with small clinging infant passed over head, the small pink foot contrasting against the dark hair of its mother. Noise broke out a bit above, sounds of a temper tantrum if you will, and we witnessed a male and female mating in the branches. The female's weaned youngster was crying and hitting the much larger male for what he must of considered an unthinkable offense. I had read about this many times, juveniles are never happy when their mothers re-enter estrus for the first time(and the subsequent "dating" that goes with this) but the males are generally very patient and pay no mind the interruption. Now I have seen this with my own eyes, this and many other behaviors all right here in the fig tree. Mating, grooming, eating, urinating, defecating, the hungry "food grunts" and socializing. We soon set off to follow the two adult males which were on the ground in the vicinity of their social group. It was hard to pull myself from the fig tree...I could watch them all day, figuring out dominance structures, relationships and such. The males proved to be uneasy about our following, although we did get within about 15 feet of these amazing creatures. They would stop, maybe groom each other or relax and then as if the stench or site of us would rub them wrong, they were off 
again. Never very quickly, save for once when we were treated to a small "display," always in a controlled manor and pace when allowed us to follow. Once the older male, the guide saying about 35 years old, stopped lounged out and groomed himself a bit, crossed his legs, stole a couple minute nap and then got up and left again. We returned to the fig tree and were allowed to just watch, listen and observe. It was one of the most amazing hours I have spent here in East Africa. That night Ben and I went to the restaurant at the lodge, had a good meal and feeling elated, looked through our photos and talked about the experience and had a couple of East Africa's pleasant bottled brews.
of the individuals, easily 30-40 feet high in this massive tree, stuffed their mouths to comically full proportions with the sweet fruit, laboring to chew and then spitting out the seeds and core. I could have watched forever. A female with small clinging infant passed over head, the small pink foot contrasting against the dark hair of its mother. Noise broke out a bit above, sounds of a temper tantrum if you will, and we witnessed a male and female mating in the branches. The female's weaned youngster was crying and hitting the much larger male for what he must of considered an unthinkable offense. I had read about this many times, juveniles are never happy when their mothers re-enter estrus for the first time(and the subsequent "dating" that goes with this) but the males are generally very patient and pay no mind the interruption. Now I have seen this with my own eyes, this and many other behaviors all right here in the fig tree. Mating, grooming, eating, urinating, defecating, the hungry "food grunts" and socializing. We soon set off to follow the two adult males which were on the ground in the vicinity of their social group. It was hard to pull myself from the fig tree...I could watch them all day, figuring out dominance structures, relationships and such. The males proved to be uneasy about our following, although we did get within about 15 feet of these amazing creatures. They would stop, maybe groom each other or relax and then as if the stench or site of us would rub them wrong, they were off 
again. Never very quickly, save for once when we were treated to a small "display," always in a controlled manor and pace when allowed us to follow. Once the older male, the guide saying about 35 years old, stopped lounged out and groomed himself a bit, crossed his legs, stole a couple minute nap and then got up and left again. We returned to the fig tree and were allowed to just watch, listen and observe. It was one of the most amazing hours I have spent here in East Africa. That night Ben and I went to the restaurant at the lodge, had a good meal and feeling elated, looked through our photos and talked about the experience and had a couple of East Africa's pleasant bottled brews.
The next day we headed to Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary, a community based project which ironically was started with the help of a former Peace Corps Volunteer, which is about 6 kilometers south of Kibale National Park. Once again the walk proved to be as exciting as the park itself and evidence that wildlife does not respect human made boundaries was everywhere. An elephant group crossing across the road is hard to miss, even if they are long gone, the footprints are unmistakable and the vegetation was a bit "disturbed" on either side of the road. We also enjoyed a bit of bird viewing, looking at the hanging nest the Weaver birds make in the trees and laughing at how a few densely inhabited trees looked a bit like Christmas trees with Weaver "bulbs." We saw a beautiful Pygmy Kingfisher and a group of rare Red-colobus monkeys dining on introduced Eucalyptus trees (which locals said they like to become drunk on). The mud and stick houses, with nicely manicured yards of flower and fruit trees, break the monotony of otherwise green expanses of agricultural hills in the area. 
After a meal of matoke (smashed cooked bananas) and beef stew at the nearby village we headed into the reserve with a local guide. The Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary is protected the remnants of the once mighty Magombe Swamp and with over 137 bird species in the area, including the beautiful Blue touraco, Ben was in binocular heaven. Our guide was very knowledgeable and she knew most birds by song or the quick glimpses as they soared through the wooded wetland.
The Magombe swamp is facing a good deal of pressure by the surrounding agricultural matrix an the protected area is essential to the conservation of the small remaining land as this project directly benefits the community through the entry fees as well as employment of guides and guards. We were unable to find out much about the management plan, other than there is a committee and group of elders that enforces regulations as well as the fact that the villagers are allowed some extractive uses. For instance, women use the reeds and stalks from the Papyrus plant to 
weave local baskets and make thatch for houses. Many areas which we went through was purely agricultural on one side and protected and wooded on the other, there was no buffer zone at all. Also there were children throughout the small reserve trying to sell small clay figurines of the Blue touraco and chimpanzee. Our guide also told us that the colobus monkeys found in Kibale are also venturing into Bigodi, which indicates they are currently able to migrate between the nearly 6 kilometers of unprotected environment to utilize both reserves. 
In the end we did see nearly 40 different species of birds in this small reserve, including the beautiful Blue touraco, and a Black and white colobus monkey. The touracos were hanging around the agricultural edge, cows to their west and the thick reeds and waterlogged forest to the east. They are a brilliant blue, the failing light however allowed me only a silhouette to share with you, and I figure this a metaphor for the numerous things here in Africa that are more brilliant than the pixels of a camera or the limit of a language can capture. -Jessica
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