Cultivation and Canoes: Adventures in Lake Bunyonyi

We continued heading south in Uganda, the land of rolling hills and crater lakes, to the famed and beautiful Lake Bunyonyi. Lake Bunyonyi is a large lake with 29 small islands which historically where not islands at all but the tops of hills found in the mountainous area which forms the border between Rwanda and Uganda. The area, once a riverine wetland, was altered when a volcanic eruption blocked the outflow and flooded the valley areas creating a network of "islands" within this new "lake." The lake itself lies at 1,962 meters above sea level and is about 25 kilometers by 7 kilometers wide. Average depth is a bit murky (as is the water), but is "guess-timated" at anywhere from 44 to 900 meters. Most of the islands have been occupied for the last 200 years, at least intermittently, and this is visually evident by the intensely cultivated and terraced slopes that are present on all the islands. In the local dialect Bunyonyi roughly translates into "Place of many small birds." Given the ornithological inclinations of my husband I wondered would this place translate for me as "Place where the husbands go missing?"

We decided to join a canoe trekking trip, a new tourism venture only offered once a month by the a group called Edrisa. I don't know exactly how to describe Edrisa, it seems a conglomerate of various efforts, the group has a guest house in Kabale, volunteer positions in education with a Bunyonyi's primary school, some fair trade projects and other various projects to help surrounding communities. It is an NGO that has taken the a self-efficient look at the bottom line and set itself up with profitable business ventures to sustainably fund their charitable efforts. For them, not depending on handouts and fickle grants and funds means that the schools and programs they are funding have a stability that many lack. It really is an interesting venture and I would encourage you to check it out on the web at http://www.edirisa.org. (Photograph is Benjamin and Warren tour manager for Edirisa overlooking Kabale) In addition to providing an amazing service to the peoples of southern Uganda, the primary school they took over has gone from one of the poorest and worst performing to the third best in the district, they provide a great service to consumers as well. The canoe trek was amazing, off the beaten track and we got a chance to stay with local families, dine on local cuisine (goat and matooke anyone?) and throw back a couple thick gulps of "sorghum porridge." But I am getting a bit ahead of myself.....

The canoe trek itself started on August 24th and ended on the 26th... so it was a very interesting way for me to turn 28, our madden voyage on the dugout canoes into the terraced hills of southern Uganda. We packed small bags, and meeting up with seven other participants (all of them volunteers for one agency or another in Uganda) we headed up to "The heart of Edirisa" a small primary school where we would launch our canoes and begin a trek into what has been called the most beautiful of the crater lakes in southern Uganda. If Churchill called Uganda his "pearl," Lake Bunyonyi proved to be the "mother of pearl." The children at Edirisa performed several dances, keeping rhythm on a cattle-hide drum, the boys and girls both shy, with eyes wondering to avoid looking at the spectators, and ebullient at the same time. I have no photographs although it is one of the most powerful images in my mind of east Africa. After the performance we loaded the long dugout canoes, able to easily accommodate five people and supplies, and headed into a lake of both "small birds" and rich human history.

We paddled our canoes, the best one can when almost everyone but the guide is already snapping photographs, heading towards Bushara Island where yes indeed, we grabbed a beverage and saw some small birds. Warren our guide was very knowledgeable and we walked around the small island as he showed us some medicinal plants used by many southern Ugandans. Some plants had some very practical applications including leaves that when eaten would suppress hunger, very practical for many pastoralists away to graze cattle for long periods of time, in addition to one plant used by pubescent girls to "develop" or enhance and elongate a certain private part in their nether-regions.....hmm. (Warren's entrepreneur kicked in as he questioned the girls in the group about its potential for marketing in western countries...enough said.)

We also saw the infamous Akampene or "Punishment Island," a small jejune island with only one tree, where pregnant unmarried girls used to be dumped off to die as punishment for their iniquity. We were told that the girls would usually drown trying to swim to another island (as many Africans-even those living on a lake-don't know how to swim) and it was particularly gruesome because sometimes the girls would also grab their brothers or fathers, as they tried to dump them off, and several members of the family would perish. The girls only hope was that a poor young farmer, without the cattle or bride price to marry, would come and "rescue" the girl to become a free bride. The practice was only abandoned in the mid 1900's when it became seen as a bit draconian.

After the unnerving tales of Akampene we headed to a much larger island called Bwama island, where the famous Ugandan cattle, some of which would make a Texas longhorn blush, greeted us. The island was "depopulated" when a Scottish physician set up a Leprosy Treatment Center in 1921. At its height the clinic housed 5,000 patients from all over East Africa and remained open until the 1980s when a drug was developed and patients no longer needed isolation to prevent spread. Now the a few villagers have returned and the well grounds have been converted into a boarding school for primary and secondary students in the area. School was out of session during our visitation, leaving way more cattle than people on this island.

We continued on our way and reached our final destination after some of the group took advantage of swimming in the bilharzia free waters under the watchful eye of a local group of children. Our hostess greeted us with genuine enthusiasm and pulled me up a steep embankment and locked me up in a bear-hug leaving my feet dangling and head pressed against her colorful kanga. Not a single person in the family spoke English or Swahili. Our group went about setting up tents among the scores of interested children, adolescents and goats, while our hosts went about fixing dinner. Foreigners or "mzungus" are still of great interest to the children and they were transfixed by their pallid visitors and particularly digital cameras. We all climbed a steep hill to view the school/ church grounds that was providing primary education to over 200 students. The teacher, one of only 3 or 4, was explaining the dilapidated conditions and struggle that the community has in providing the children with education. Many times, he said, the overcrowded and hot class rooms must move under the mango tree to conduct classes. Certainly not an ideal situation but I also told him that well trained teachers can teach and inspire students in any situation and locally built infrastructure does not mean inferior education. How teachers can deal with 50-60+ children is an entirely different issue. We descending the steep gradient towards the house to ready for a filling meal including goat, sweet potato and porridge. The host family asked me to snap a photograph of their family, three generations, and I hurried to set up the shot as the sun drowned behind us. They were incredibly generous people and my only regret was the sizable language barrier which left most of us with crude gestures and dependent on our guides to translate.

The next day we embarked on a full day trek up to the highest peak in the area, Karembe (mountain? hill?....felt more like mountain) which is about 8,130 feet above see level. Up was of the fast and furious venture, the steep rocky path overlooking the border with Rwanda. The area is inhabited by several tribes, the most famous are the Batwa tribe (also known as "pygmies") and lesser known Bakiga. Our guides explained to us how many Bakiga benefited during the genocides in Rwanda by subjugating the Batwa to carry goods raided from the abandoned gardens and forests over the hill. The Batwa, however short their stature, are renowned as being exceptionally strong and able to carry 100 kilograms for long distances. We saw several Batwa men carrying bags filled with agricultural products that looked twice their size and it became little wonder that these people have been exploited as porters. As we reached the top and crossed the hill, the views were as breathtaking as the climb.

We had lunch at the top of the hill with a commanding view of the terraced islands of Lake Bunyonyi. We also could see Mt.Muhabura, one of the extinct volcanoes of the Varunga mountain range in Rwanda. We finished our lunch and proceeded to "relax" atop the bald hill, void of all shade, chatting and enjoying the beautiful view. Unfortunately this proved problematic latter on as our group began feeling parched and greedily consumed our water supply with several kilometers left to go. The day became long, hot and dusty. The villagers still regarding us with curiosity send children yelling, "Mzungu! Mzungu!" and toddlers crying. Once interesting stop resulted in an impromptu dancing and singing session. It was amazing but all most of the sun-burnt mzungu could do was watch with interest clinging to the few thorn-clad bushes which provided sparse shade. The descent was my least favorite part, long and gruelling it felt as if we would never reach the lake shore again. Once we did, our group had actually broke a record and arrived early which equated to the boats not being at shore. Nearby, Habukomi island was to be our sleeping grounds for the night. Inhabited by just one family, the Edirisa staff had taken the gear earlier that morning and where still on the island. As we waited we watched many of the lake's bird species heading for their night roost. It was a sanguine end to a wonderful yet challenging day.

Arriving on the island at night we saw that the human population was surpassed, at night, by the African crown-crane population. These regal birds were roosting in the trees and walking around the manicured grazing grounds for the few livestock on the island. Sorghum, goats, small crops (maize) and one homestead was the sole evidence of human habitation. We pitched our tents, ate our goat and motoke, swigs of fermented sorghum, our tired bones went to sleep for the night. Our last day we woke early, summited the small isle and were greeted by a green mamba (very poisonous snake) which, sleek and without malice or hesitation, exited the accidental human corral smoothly and at close proximity to our fellow travelers. We continued on canoes, to an island set up for those who wanted a bit more comfort than a tent and had an amazing meal. The group talked, non-stop almost creating a white noise of human laughter and bird-like chatter, the beer was good (cold) and the food was amazing. The birds were abundant and we even spotted an otter. An amazing trip, great company and one more reason why Uganda is truly a hidden treasure in East Africa.

-Jessica (firmly in her late 20's)

The 3 R's: Rest, Relaxation, & Road Travel: Fort Portal & Lake Nyabikere, Uganda

(Preliminary Note: The initial photos do not follow the text - try not to get lost!)

After doing all of our laundry, walking around, and generally loitering around Kampala for a couple of days we resolved to try our luck at getting hold of chimpanzee tracking permits and head east to Fort Portal, the staging post for trips to crater lakes and Kibale National Park. That morning we split up - me packing the bags, the tent, and getting ready for departure, and Jessica headed out for an adventure of her own. She took a boda-boda (motorcycle taxi) to the other end of town to snag two recently canceled chimpanzee tracking permits at the Uganda Wildlife Authority office.

She told the driver where she needed to go and hung on for what soon came to be a ride she will never forget. They got downtown and started weaving through the traffic and winding streets when the driver asked her where the UWA office was. Apparently he did not know their destination, but of course was not going to say so and pass up a passenger. Jess had not taken the map with her, and Kampala being such a sprawled out city over numerous hills simply could not remember where exactly it was either. Well, eventually they reached the UWA office and she returned on the same boda-boda with an expression I will not soon forget. She was tired but had a great time.


So, we ate an early lunch and then headed down to the madhouse that is the new taxi park and bus station at the bottom (see previous blog for photo) of the hill from where we were staying. The bus that we wanted to take had not arrived yet and the ticket counter was not issuing tickets in advance. So, when the bus finally showed up the front of the ticket window was a chaotic orgy of elbows and people all wanting tickets at the same time. I stayed back and "guarded the bags" while Jess joined the fray, inching slowly towards the small window but still being crowded out by so many other people. Another muzungu (Anya, a woman from Slovenia who also was traveling with a guy "guarding" their bags) eventually pushed her way with Jessica to the front and got tickets for all of us. Having hauled out packs onto the bus and negotiated getting seats (which is not an easy task) we headed out of Kampala towards Fort Portal.

For Portal is a small town in Western Uganda that serves as the main commercial post for the Toro Kingdom and the Kabarole District. For tourists, it serves as the main launching point to the surrounding crater lakes and national parks. We arrived after dusk and made our way to the Continental Hotel. We settled in, had a descent and inexpensive meal and a couple beers with Anya and Domen and talked about their trip to Ethiopia and their home country of Slovenia.

The next day the four of us decided to go together to Lake Nyabikere, one of the area's many crater lakes, to spend a couple of days relaxing and exploring. We made our way to the small shared taxi park a few hundred meters away down the main road and chose the only matatu (14 passenger minivan) going where we wanted. We spent the next half an hour circling town looking for passengers as these vehicles do not leave on their route until the inside of the vehicle can give stiff competition with clown cars at a circus as to how many people they can cram in at one time. We had (no lie) 27 people in the vehicle at one point - with all of their stuff like chickens, bags of sweet potatoes, and hand bags. Comfy!

It took less than an hour to reach Lake Nyabikere 20km south of Fort Portal . We settled into the nice, friendly run CVK Resort, and hung out for the day, relaxing around the lake and spotting red-tailed monkeys and doing some light bird watching. The next day we took a walk around the lake, disturbed only for a short time by intermittent showers. This was an adventure in and of itself.

The lake is so small that you really can't get lost in the surrounding area. However, there are so many paths and winding roads with no signs that negotiating a circuitous route became a fun afternoon. Half way through the walk we came upon a small hamlet at the top of a hill and were greeted by a young girl who was more than eager to help us find our way. So, we let her take us around and through gardens and lightly forested areas, stopping on occasion to look at birds. A couple of her friends tagged along and where mostly curious in the muzungu. It was a pleasant walk, but (of course) when it came to an end at the main road they all demanded money for guiding us around. So, a little peeved, but understanding, we parted with some small change and continued on our way.

On the third day at the Lake the four of us took a long walk down the road south towards Kibale National Park (only 12km away) on information that a couple of chimpanzees were spotted on consecutive days in the top of a fruiting fig tree 10m off the road about an hour and a half walk away. The walk was beautiful. We went by large tea plantations, saw elephant foot prints along the road, took way too many photos of butterflies gathered in groups at the roads edge, and saw a couple new bird species - including a crested hornbill. We soon found ourselves walking in a more forested area and it was obvious that we were approaching Kibale National Park. Off in the distance on our right we heard a troop of chimpanzees on the hunt. It was amazing yet eerie to think that so intelligent and powerful animals were alive and well and on the hunt not too far from where we stood. It did, however, unsettle some red-tailed monkeys that were gathered in the trees above us, and they soon began acrobatic leaps across the road to avoid any change of clashing with the chimps. We never did get to see chimps that day, but we certainly were aware of their presence.
As the day wound on and the light began fading we hopped in the back of a maize truck headed back up to the CVK and the lake for one more night of good sleep, hot showers, and some cold beer. The next day, the four of us packed up, ate breakfast, and then headed south again along the same stretch of road in the back of a truck. We said goodbye to Anya and Domen at the gate to Kibale National Park where we were to spend a couple of days and do some chimp tracking. I think Jess and I will try to meet up with them again, and they have done some campaigning to get us to come check out Slovakia (I mean Slovenia).

Of Kinship and Forests Kibale National Park, Uganda

After a few excursions on foot from Lake Nyabikere, one of which Ben and I headed to the entrance of Kibale forest with new found Slovenian friends, we headed in earnest to Uganda's Kibale National Park. The park is nestled in mature forest area at an altitude of 1200 meters with a surrounding agricultural matrix of tea, bananas and rolling hills found in this crater lake region of the south. Kibale National Park is a bit of a primatologist's mecca, boasting the claim at having the highest primate densities in the world, including nocturnal, the rare and the hauntingly-human-like chimpanzees. Some of the primate species found in this national park include: the Olive Baboon, Red Colobus Monkey, Angolan colobus, Black and white colobus, red-tailed monkeys, Bush babies, Galagoes and of course the only Great Ape in the Park, the Chimpanzee. According to the last and very recent survey of the park area, the protected area claims to have nearly 1400 of these magnificent creatures and 5 groups habituated to human contact. The park also has the largest concentration of forest elephants in Uganda- although these creatures are avoided due to their aggressive nature.

Walking down the roads had proven to be a fruitful (and cheap) way to view wildlife. Walking south from Lake Nyabikere we had seen numerous bird species, a young Forest Cobra, a beautiful array of butterflies and witnessed (mostly heard) a very nervous group of Red-tailed monkeys crossing the road, via arboreal-acrobatic leaps, to avoid the hoots and warning calls of a rather large group of chimpanzees. There really was something for these nimble monkeys to be nervous about: chimpanzees are known to hunt and eat monkeys. It was an amazing thing to witness, the monkeys leaping 12-15 feet across the dirt road we were standing on to the tones of chimpanzees under the forest floor. We never caught a glimpse of the apes, just the effect of their antics on the much smaller red-tails and those all-familiar hoots of our closest primate kin. We also saw tracks indicating a road crossing, the divergent toes of the chimpanzees caked in the clay-mud and heard their voices. Would we be lucky enough to observe these apes in the wild? Would they elude us like they had been eluding other visitors recently? I was very tentative and nervous about our chances. Ben kept asking, "Excited for tomorrow? Ready to see chimpanzees in their natural habitat?" I was nervous. This is not a zoo and the natural conditions in the dense forest combined with the movements of the chimps can lead to disappointment. Recently,the park guards told us the day we arrived, the chimps have been elusive, sparsely placed and traveling in very small sub-groups due to late season rains and subsequent late fruiting of the fig trees that the chimpanzees commonly visit for feeding, grooming, socialization, mating, playing and just plan hanging out with the family. We were lucky, the guards said, just last week these trees took to late ripening and the chimps were once again feeding.

We pitched our tent in the park's campsite and quickly took note that while visitors flock to see the large charismatic animals of the parks, the monkeys and chimps at which we view through curious antics of familiar kinship, it is the much smaller inhabitants of the forest that probably rule the forest. I am talking of the supreme architects, extremely social, exceptionally strong in both numbers and physical design - the omnipresent ANTS. They were amazing, I had a strong respect for the our first day as a large, I mean LARGE and in charge, procession cut through the road in droves, with all the supreme organization that only the ants can muster. Not a single individual out of line, the soldiers, the workers- all followed their unified goal and not one questioned their place in the moving mass. As I took photographs I became aware that the commonly called "soldier ants," with massive mandibles, somehow where aware of my presents and began to break rank moving in my direction. They were phenomenal, I thought in admiration, of these supremely adapted creatures. My admiration faltered quickly as Ben and I fought for the next two days to keep them out of our tent and from under our clothes. This was not an easy task and as whimsically tried to pick one off my trousers it bit my finger, drawing blood, and sent me swearing across the grass. They are persistent, even as I removed the body from the head the mandibles held on. In short, no more than twice where Ben and I sent in frenzy, slapping our pants away from these creatures. With the warfare on, we abandoned one of the entrances to our tent, doused the outside and inside with insect repellent (resorting to chemical warfare), crossed our fingers and were pleasantly relieved when the newly arrived (and rather upscale) Dutch campers began the loud-stomping and assumed swearing, in foreign tones, several hours later. Between ants and men: humans find it hard to win the battle let alone the war.

Our chimp-trekking rendezvous arrived, much anticipated, and we followed our park guide and a family of four into the forest. This was by no means a rough hike in the woods, the paths were well worn, occasional trees labeled with English common and scientific names and our guard had a radio by which he kept in contact with base and other trekkers. The forest appeared to be rather mature, undergrowth subdued by a long closed canopies, with large trees with a bit of girth. They also had an unknown fungal infection spreading among many of the larger trees. The guard told our group of the policy of non-interference with such natural orders and yet they are a bit concerned and are now keeping track of the infection rates and spatial movements. While we didn't see any forest elephants, we certainly found enough our their rather large scat and our guard told us that if we see the elephants under no circumstances our we to move towards them or even linger to view, standard protocol: get the as far away as fast as you can and if you can keep up with the guard... all the better.

Walking, walking, walking... and the forest is much quieter than the day that we were on the road listening to the hoots and alarm calls of the chimps and red tailed monkeys. Our group came across a troop of olive baboons. This is a primate species that we had seen several times, second only to the vervet monkeys which are even found in urban centers, and yet the seemed a bit more magnificent and noble in the forest. Several times we had seen them in Kenya, once digging through a rubbish-cage (obviously not working) in Masai Mara Reserve, they were always in the arid shrub lands. Here in Kibale they looked massive compared to those dwelling in the open savanna and we also noticed they looked demographically like a much more stable group, with more adults and less subadults than some of the ones in the savanna. The male was huge (or maybe felt so much larger in the absence of the a protective safari vehicle). We heard, smelled and saw the cautious Black & white colobus monkeys high above in the canopy. I say smelled because being possessing a ruminant stomach and subsisting on almost a completely leafy diet...they have a bit of a fermenting methane smell. I would call them cautious because they are certainly not habituated to humans and for good reason, the former King of the Toro people of Uganda often requested numerous tribal dancers to perform wearing the skins of this long haired monkey (with black and white hair...obviously). Where were the chimps? And then through the undergrowth, a large swarthy creature moved cautiously away from the bipedal encroachers. Then another dark figure, with the accompanied low grunts moved away. It was two males, patrols, our guide informed us. We followed. Our guide immediately set foot to a large fig tree nearby and within the lofty branches were a large group of chimpanzees: males, females, juveniles and infants all enjoying the late ripening of the fig fruit in their forest home.

Fortuitously this was the largest habituated group in Kibale National Park. We watched as many of the individuals, easily 30-40 feet high in this massive tree, stuffed their mouths to comically full proportions with the sweet fruit, laboring to chew and then spitting out the seeds and core. I could have watched forever. A female with small clinging infant passed over head, the small pink foot contrasting against the dark hair of its mother. Noise broke out a bit above, sounds of a temper tantrum if you will, and we witnessed a male and female mating in the branches. The female's weaned youngster was crying and hitting the much larger male for what he must of considered an unthinkable offense. I had read about this many times, juveniles are never happy when their mothers re-enter estrus for the first time(and the subsequent "dating" that goes with this) but the males are generally very patient and pay no mind the interruption. Now I have seen this with my own eyes, this and many other behaviors all right here in the fig tree. Mating, grooming, eating, urinating, defecating, the hungry "food grunts" and socializing. We soon set off to follow the two adult males which were on the ground in the vicinity of their social group. It was hard to pull myself from the fig tree...I could watch them all day, figuring out dominance structures, relationships and such. The males proved to be uneasy about our following, although we did get within about 15 feet of these amazing creatures. They would stop, maybe groom each other or relax and then as if the stench or site of us would rub them wrong, they were off again. Never very quickly, save for once when we were treated to a small "display," always in a controlled manor and pace when allowed us to follow. Once the older male, the guide saying about 35 years old, stopped lounged out and groomed himself a bit, crossed his legs, stole a couple minute nap and then got up and left again. We returned to the fig tree and were allowed to just watch, listen and observe. It was one of the most amazing hours I have spent here in East Africa. That night Ben and I went to the restaurant at the lodge, had a good meal and feeling elated, looked through our photos and talked about the experience and had a couple of East Africa's pleasant bottled brews.

The next day we headed to Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary, a community based project which ironically was started with the help of a former Peace Corps Volunteer, which is about 6 kilometers south of Kibale National Park. Once again the walk proved to be as exciting as the park itself and evidence that wildlife does not respect human made boundaries was everywhere. An elephant group crossing across the road is hard to miss, even if they are long gone, the footprints are unmistakable and the vegetation was a bit "disturbed" on either side of the road. We also enjoyed a bit of bird viewing, looking at the hanging nest the Weaver birds make in the trees and laughing at how a few densely inhabited trees looked a bit like Christmas trees with Weaver "bulbs." We saw a beautiful Pygmy Kingfisher and a group of rare Red-colobus monkeys dining on introduced Eucalyptus trees (which locals said they like to become drunk on). The mud and stick houses, with nicely manicured yards of flower and fruit trees, break the monotony of otherwise green expanses of agricultural hills in the area. After a meal of matoke (smashed cooked bananas) and beef stew at the nearby village we headed into the reserve with a local guide.

The Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary is protected the remnants of the once mighty Magombe Swamp and with over 137 bird species in the area, including the beautiful Blue touraco, Ben was in binocular heaven. Our guide was very knowledgeable and she knew most birds by song or the quick glimpses as they soared through the wooded wetland.

The Magombe swamp is facing a good deal of pressure by the surrounding agricultural matrix an the protected area is essential to the conservation of the small remaining land as this project directly benefits the community through the entry fees as well as employment of guides and guards. We were unable to find out much about the management plan, other than there is a committee and group of elders that enforces regulations as well as the fact that the villagers are allowed some extractive uses. For instance, women use the reeds and stalks from the Papyrus plant to weave local baskets and make thatch for houses. Many areas which we went through was purely agricultural on one side and protected and wooded on the other, there was no buffer zone at all. Also there were children throughout the small reserve trying to sell small clay figurines of the Blue touraco and chimpanzee. Our guide also told us that the colobus monkeys found in Kibale are also venturing into Bigodi, which indicates they are currently able to migrate between the nearly 6 kilometers of unprotected environment to utilize both reserves.

In the end we did see nearly 40 different species of birds in this small reserve, including the beautiful Blue touraco, and a Black and white colobus monkey. The touracos were hanging around the agricultural edge, cows to their west and the thick reeds and waterlogged forest to the east. They are a brilliant blue, the failing light however allowed me only a silhouette to share with you, and I figure this a metaphor for the numerous things here in Africa that are more brilliant than the pixels of a camera or the limit of a language can capture.

-Jessica

Uganda: Churchill's "Pearl of Africa"

We entered Uganda on a very early and cramped bus from Kisumu, Kenya, arriving at the international border at Busia. International borders in East Africa are not unpleasant, but they do have their hassles.

Immediately we were surrounded and accosted by a swarm of men wearing bright-colored uniform smocks holding massive wads of cash and calculators trying every technique to get us to exchange our money for the local currency. When this happens it already puts red flags to the mind and questions like "why can't I change money after we go through immigration?" come to mind. And then the alarm sounds when they offer exchange rates that (1) sound too good to be true, (2) is to good to be true, and (3) makes you wonder how they can actually use these rates to earn a living. So, we declined (many times if that wasn't enough) and proceeded through the immigration procedures and pay for our visas. Then we saw the sign posted saying that it is illegal to exchange money at the border. (At another border in our adventure a tourist on our bus exchanged her local currency for a crisp new fake US $100 bill that was essentially a wax covered, white and black xeroxed copy. Sorry!).

Walking through the No Man's Land between border posts (50m) a large, white tanker truck was parked to the side. A black gooey mess was slowly oozing out of the very top hatch like a bubbling geyser. A group of boys were scraping the tar-like substance from the tanker, from the ground, and from themselves and collecting it in various dirty plastic containers. We assumed it was oil, bus in passing the spectacle we noticed it had a very sweet smell. Molasses! A band of older women we scolding the boys in Kiswahili, probably to the tune of "Don't you dare on selling that to people at the market!"

After going through immigration our bus was cleared by Customs and we proceeded down the main road towards Kampala, through the heart of Eastern Uganda. We had the pleasure of meeting a young, German woman working on her master's degree studying the impacts of European Union trade agreements with Uganda. She told us that it is actually more economical for Uganda to import many goods from Europe than from its East African neighbors, being hampered by local infrastructure and high duties imposed on these goods in the region. However, moves are being made to incorporate all of East Africa into one customs union to encourage trade and secondary processing in the region. Moving on . . .

When Winston Churchill called Uganda the "Pearl of Africa" he may have been referring to the striking county side of the central or southern provinces: the crater lakes among hills and mountains lush and green, or the amazing abundance of wildlife that the country "once" boasted, the source of the mighty and mystical Nile River or perhaps just the beautiful people themselves, the many inhabitants of Uganda's many historical kingdoms. Although Churchill witnessed a Uganda that hadn't seen the horrors of the Idi Amin's regime and the turmoil of the 1970's and 80's, he was on to something. Uganda is a spectacular country, that seems to cultivate hope as rich as the volcanic grounds in the south cultivate tea and bananas.

Moving west towards Kampala we went over a newly constructed hydroelectric dam at Jinja over the Nile River. It is here that the Nile River begins is long winding journey towards its delta in northern Egypt. The initial stretch of the Nile is a turbulent, whirling conveyor that many adventurous an trill seeking ("crazy") people spend their hard earned money to tempt fate on 30km (~18 miles) of class five white-water rapids. I do not deny that the two of us had planned on taking the trip, but it was probably our best judgement that won our minds over in the end. Even to the best attempts at others who had done the trip before to convince us that is was safe although they thought at the time that "there comes a point during the trip when you literally think that you're doing to die", we declined. Unfortunately during our stay in Uganda an eleven year old girl lost her life on that stretch of river white-water rafting, an uncommon yet always possible reality.

We entered the capital of Kampala on a rather sour note...long ride, we were again in the back row of seats on the bus (which not only don't recline but also have 5 people across) and I had a Kenyan woman which had unrelentlessly slept on me with her dead weight for nearly the last 4 hours of the trip. Upon crossing the border we noticed a couple things: (1)the roads were surprisingly better on the Ugandan side and (2) the housing had changed from the cut stones of the Rift Valley inhabitants to clay bricks on the Ugandan side. I am sure that none of these changes were as stark as we remember, due to semi-unconsciousness for about the last 3-4 hours before being woke up at about 4:30 am to cross the border. Upon reaching Kampala, which sprawls out forever draped over seven rolling hills, we headed for our campsite outside the capital a bit and pitched our tent. There was laundry to be done, sleep to be had (in a horizontal position) and food to be eaten (bus commuters survive on a diet of "stick meat" such as roasted beef or goat and chapati or Indian flat bread). Upon setting up the tent we noticed some large, unusual birds, a resident group of vervet monkeys and the sun striking the distant hill just the right way that made this capital city seem like a jewel compared to Nairobi.

Hanging out for a couple days in Kampala was essential on several points, the first being we had not a stitch of clothing clean upon entering and we had to figure out that our volunteer-budget traveling would not allow us to go see the gorillas-the price having risen to $500 USD a person for one hour or nearly that to enter the Democratic Republic of the Congo for a little-less with a lot more risk. So what to do while the clothes are dripping dry? Walk around the city of course!

Life on the Road - Olsem Wanem? (How?)

Many of you may be wondering how we are tackling the issue of living on the road in East Africa for weeks at a time and on a budget (~$35 USD/day). Here is a brief description of how we are getting along on the road. Enjoy!

Transport:
Public transport – Sort of like a real-life experience on sardines in a can or an experiment on how many people you can actually fit into a vehicle, traveling via public transport here in East Africa is not a luxurious matter. Shared taxis (technically 14 passenger vans) can sometimes hold up to 27 adults and children (and their accompanying luggage). You can also look at is as a wise use of fossil fuels. We generally only use this mode of transport once we get to our destination for short distance travel.

Long-distance travel – Generally we opt for larger buses (technically 47 passengers) but more often in excess of 65 people and their stuff. Cramped, hot, and dangerous (as it tends to speed wildly down the road swerving around slower vehicles) this is not a rather enjoyable way to travel, but it does save some bucks – and those are important after all.

“In Style” – Long distance travel via a more comfortable bus where everyone gets an entire seat to themselves and only stops for bathroom breaks, police barricades, or at international borders. This is much more expensive, but a heck of a lot nicer than the previous option. And then there’s flying on one of East Africa’s many airlines. This is truly a magical experience, and the ease and comfort is easily contagious leaving you wanting luxury more and more. (At least it feels like that). We’ve only taken one plane – and it was awesome!

Accommodation:
Guest house – usually a small establishment, somewhat clean, with communal toilets, showers and laundry sink; rooms typically have two twin beds with mosquito nets and sometimes have a wooden chair and small mirror.

Camping – usual style with the tent we bought in Thailand for $30 with just enough room for our bags and the two of us neatly settled into three parallel lines. Sleeping bags are a must (especially for Kenya as it can get quite cold at night), and rolled up clothes shoved into the sleeping bag cover makes a nifty pillow.

Food:
Eating Local – The best option (and usually the quickest) is to eat what everyone else is eating, such as sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes, cooked bananas and beans, goat or beef, rice, chapatti – not many vegetables really. It also gives us the opportunity to ‘storian’ (talk) with the locals and hang out.

‘Muzungu’ (Foreigner) Establishments – When the going gets tough (or the palate needs a break) the tough get a cheeseburger. After serving in Vanuatu for three years we think we have “done our time” by eating bland, starch laden food. So, we sometimes take the opportunity to splurge on the more expensive (and slower) foods, like pasta (with cheese), salads, etc. Generally, it is better if you ask what has already been prepared to save a lot of time, effort, and the inevitability of having to change your order because they in fact do not have what you want.

Self Catering – That’s right! We’ve enjoyed cooking rice, instant soup, and soya mince in a couple of cheap pots over a simple collapsible camping stove. It’s been especially nice for making coffee when we first wake up.

Excursions:
A walk in the woods, national park entrance fee and guide, canoeing, spice tour, you name it – as long as it isn’t “too expensive”. This usually does not get figured into the daily living budget, but has been planned for.

Incidentals:
Internet & emailing, stamps, toiletries, pleasure reading books & stationary, etc. . . . oh yeah, and beer.
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All of this adds up to an enjoyable experience, both with its discomforts and comforts (which typically becomes a balancing act between food and accommodation). It has already been such an amazing trip and it isn’t even half over.